How to Adopt a Vintage Sewing Machine
There it is, sparkling in the distance. A vintage sewing machine of unknown origin, calling you to the dusty corner of the thrift store to save it from the trash heap. Do you buy it and hope for the best? How do you know if it is worth the price — or even works? You think to yourself I wish I knew exactly how to adopt a vintage Singer or Pfaff sewing machine.
We know the drill because we have been there so many times. It’s so tempting to give these older machines a loving home. But it is a bit scary too. How do we know if it is worth purchasing, or will it be nothing more than a paperweight sitting on a shelf collecting dust? How do you know if the machine is worth the sticker price? Does it even work? Does it need major repairs? Below are a few tips that will help you when you need to make a quick decision.
Conduct a Visual Inspection
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Does it have a power cord?
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Does it have a foot pedal?
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Does it have a bobbin (and bobbin case)?
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Does the handwheel turn, and does the needle go up and down?
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How does the body of the machine look? Is there rust or damage? Are the decals intact? Are there scratches?
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Can you easily find a make/model? What about a serial number?
This information can give you an idea about the machine’s condition and help you make a quick purchasing decision. A thorough visual screening can give you an idea of how much use the machine had in its lifetime and how well it was treated. Seeing what comes with it and checking moving parts can tell you what you might need to do in the way of replacement parts or repairs to get it up and running again.
A quick internet search for the make and model can give you a vague idea about value. (However, do take that information with a grain of salt; many people think that vintage sewing machines are worth more than they truly are). While some machines — like Singer Featherweights — are in high demand and often sell for a pretty penny when completely refurbished, not all vintage machines can demand such a high sale price. And not all have replacement parts readily available.
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Ask the Experts
I decided to turn to the experts for more information about purchasing a vintage sewing machine. I own a Singer Featherweight that was made in 1961 and recently purchased a maintenance kit from The Featherweight Shop. This family-run business in Idaho sells Featherweight machines as well as everything you need to maintain one, and even some Featherweight-themed accessories.
The business began after April Henry started looking for the perfect sewing machine to make clothing for her children. “Back in the early 2000s, when I fi rst began sewing for our family, I only had a modern machine. However, after acquiring a vintage Singer Featherweight and becoming more and more familiar with using it, I quickly discovered how much easier it was to set up, sew, and maintain comparatively, and the stitch was beautiful! My old, little black Singer has since remained a constant sewing companion.”
So how do you know if that vintage machine at the thrift store is a good buy? Christian Henry, April’s son—who also is a part of the family business, says that the potential unknowns of buying an antique machine can cause you to pause. “Some education, resources, and a little bravery, can alleviate much fear,” he suggests.
“Because the mechanical components of a Featherweight are metal, most malfunctions of the machine can be fi xed; however, some repairs are costly and can turn what seems to be a good deal into something well over budget. To help prevent a surprise and problem machine, we recommend test sewing with the machine before buying,” Christian continues.
What to look for During a Test Drive
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Original Bobbin Case: Often missing. Replica parts are not as valuable and can fail to create a good stitch.
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Foot Controller: Another part that can sometimes be missing.
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Electrical Cords: Note that the wire can be replaced or rewired if it is damaged, but this is an additional expense.
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Smoking Machine: This means that oil has been put in the motor rather than lubricant, and it may have caused damage. This is a costly repair.
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Slow Machine: This may not indicate a major repair. Look at the belt (if the machine has one) to see if the bobbin winder is engaged or if the belt seems too tight. However, if the belt looks fi ne and the handwheel turns easily, the problem could be the motor which would be a costly repair.
Test it Out
Sewing on a fabric swatch can give you some clues as well. However, skipped stitches, thread loops on the front or back of the fabric, and breaking thread should not dissuade you from buying a machine. These issues can be caused by something as simple as a bad needle or incorrect threading. The Featherweight Shop has a video tutorial called Troubleshooting Stitch Problems on its website to help with Featherweights. For other machines, a simple internet search for your machine’s make and model and the error might help you find something similar.
Sourcing Parts
Sourcing parts can be challenging-depending on the make and model of the machine. It is best to do a little research to make sure that the machine was not discontinued, and that parts are no longer readily available. The Featherweight Shop stocks rare, vintage original parts, as well as replica parts and supplies for the Singer 221 and 222.
However, April offers a word of caution: “The electrical motor is probably the weakest and most susceptible to agerelated wear and tear. Therefore, our technicians service and rebuild Featherweight motors to return them to their optimum speed and performance while still maintaining vintage originality,” April says. “For other vintage machines, it’s always good to check with your local sewing machine service shop because they frequently have years of accumulated parts or can help source that hard-to-find part from fellow collectors and enthusiasts,” she continued.
A Bit of Advice for Everyone
Taking care of a vintage sewing machine is not much different from taking care of any sewing machine. Christian offers this advice: “There are good habits to have when using the machine to be sure it is performing at its best.
“Change the needle often, don’t turn the handwheel the wrong direction (always turn it towards you), hold the thread tails at the beginning of each seam, and make sure the belt isn’t too tight.” That is helpful advice all sewing machine enthusiasts should follow!
Originally published in Quiltmaker magazine January/February 2023.
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